Lisbon… Day 3

“Turning 30 isn’t about getting older - it’s about realising how much life there is still to love.”

Woke up to birthday messages and presents, with my partner excitedly waiting for me to fall asleep early so he could hang up a birthday banner. Sadly for him, I was far too excited for the big day to get much sleep!

Breakfast was the usual spread, though today I tried the granola option - a new favourite.

When I travel, I always like to pick up a few things unique to that country: a piece of jewellery and a watercolour painting. My partner had found a lovely little painting shop near the castle Jorge showed us, so that was top of our list for today. We also planned to look around jewellery shops, spend my birthday money from family, ride a tram, visit the viewpoint at Miradouro de Santa Luzia, take our pastel de nata cooking class, and finish off with dinner at a restaurant my hairdresser had recommended. Today was already jam-packed - and perfectly planned.

The Morning Tram Ride

Ready for the day ahead, we headed up the hill to a small tram stop. Two trams passed in the opposite direction, glowing golden in the sunrise - such a mesmerising sight.

I was thrilled that we’d be able to take one to the painting shop. The traditional tram was rustic yet beautiful - small, charming, and full of history. It felt surreal to finally tick this off my travel bucket list!

As the tram slowed to a stop, I could hardly contain my excitement. Even though this was everyday life for Lisbon locals, I didn’t care - I was a tourist through and through, and it was my birthday!

As we travelled from stop to stop, more passengers piled in until the tram was packed to the brim. Luckily, I’d managed to get a window seat, and my partner and I didn’t get separated.

The closer we got to our stop, the more we discovered new sides of Lisbon - little hidden alleys, grand streets, and unexpected views. Travelling off-route always leads to surprises; if you only follow the path given, you miss out on so much magic.

The Viewpoint & Market Stalls

The tram stopped on a steep hill at just the right moment - right before the viewpoint at Miradouro de Santa Luzia. Vibrant purple and pink flowers swayed gently in the breeze among the trees. It was breathtaking. No wonder it’s one of Lisbon’s most photographed spots.

Looking out across the rooftops and the port - where the same cruise ships from yesterday still waited - I felt like I was inside a painting. Nearby, we found a huge wall of blue tiles and a mural. A couple asked us to take their picture, and we did the same. The colours - blue tiles, pink flowers, whitewashed walls - all popped beautifully in the sunlight.

Up near the church overlooking the viewpoint, there were a few stalls selling art and jewellery. One small watercolour instantly caught my eye - a tiny red tram climbing a hill. I knew my mum would love it. Perfect!

A guitarist played classical music in the background - the moment felt cinematic. Then we noticed cameras nearby - it actually was being filmed! They couldn’t have chosen a better spot.

The Art Store & Ice Cream Break

Next on our list was the art shop my partner had found online. We made our way up the steep hills toward Castelo de São Jorge, passing narrow streets lined with small shops. The temperature was definitely hotter than the day before - an ice cream or drink was a must!

Eventually, we found the tucked-away art store - Art Gallery & Atelier - and stepped inside. It was blissfully cool and full of charm. Paintings covered every inch of the walls - delicate watercolours on paper, canvas, and even originals with certificates of authenticity.

Collecting watercolours is one of my favourite travel traditions. Each piece is a little memory frozen in time. I felt like a kid in a sweet shop, unsure which one to choose.

In the end, two paintings stood out: one of a yellow tram winding through the city, and another original artwork with a similar layout but a different mood. These two spoke to me more than any others, and I was ecstatic to bring them home.

After a quick drink in the shade, we started our walk back down the hill - and stumbled across an ice cream shop, Popbar, selling stick ice creams dipped halfway in chocolate. The perfect treat for a scorching day! 10/10 - highly recommend.

Just down the hill, we passed a tiled café with a saxophonist performing outside. It felt like a scene from a postcard - pure Lisbon.

We soon found ourselves near the famous sandwich shop, As Bifanas do Afonso - the one with queues stretching down the street. Sadly, time was tight, so we made a note to try it next time.

Jewellery, Markets & a Birthday Treat

We finally reached the jewellery district we’d seen on Google Maps. Sadly, most shops were chains and nothing really stood out.

But nearby, we discovered a liquor store filled floor-to-ceiling with bottles - wines, ports, whiskies, rums, tequilas, even Armagnac - some costing thousands! We stuck to admiring the more affordable ones, but it was fascinating to see such variety.

By lunchtime, our stomachs were growling. At the end of the street was a bustling open square called Praça da Figueira, with wooden stalls, food stands, handmade jewellery, and sweets. Misters sprayed cool water over the crowd - heaven!

After browsing, I finally found a necklace that caught my eye: a delicate silver chain with a clear green apple stone in the centre. My partner bought it for me as a birthday gift, and I couldn’t stop smiling. It’s never about the price - it’s about finding something that speaks to you.

We grabbed lunch from a sandwich stall, which sadly we couldn’t remember the name of. The sandwiches were juicy and delicious, though the service was a bit confusing. 7/10 - great food, average communication.

The Famous Bakery & Cooking Class

On the way back, we couldn’t resist stopping at Fábrica da Nata - Pastéis de Nata - the legendary pastel de nata shop. Trays of golden pastries glided overhead on little rails from the kitchen to the counter. The whole place was bright, warm, and full of energy. 10/10 - wish we could’ve stayed longer!

Crossing the street felt like playing Frogger, but we caught our bus just in time! Back at the hotel, we freshened up, dropped off our shopping, and set out again for our cooking class - still undefeated in our record of not missing a single bus!

The class was held in a quieter part of Lisbon, on the city’s western side. More neighbourhoods, fewer shops, but full of character. We rushed up the narrow cobbled streets to the building - tucked under another, with only a small sign. Without it, we would’ve walked straight past.

Making Our Own Pastéis de Nata

It was time to get our hands dirty and make our own pastéis de nata! After trying them all over the city, we couldn’t wait to learn how to make them from scratch.

As we stepped inside, the air conditioning hit us - pure heaven after the heat outside. There were about twenty of us in total: couples, friends, solo travellers. Most were from America; we were the only two from the UK!

The instructor was lovely and clear with her directions, though at one point our pastry “rectangle” looked more like an abstract painting than a shape! She kindly helped us fix it before baking.

While waiting for the custard to be prepared, we chatted with others - a couple travelling Europe after a wedding, a group of friends exploring together. It was such a friendly, happy group.

The smell of baking filled the air - buttery pastry, warm custard, a hint of cinnamon. Pure bliss.

When the pastries were done, we were given three drinks to pair them with: Ruby Tawny Port, a sour cherry liqueur, and an amaretto-style spirit. My favourite was the sour cherry - sweet, rich, and perfectly paired. My partner loved the port so much that he bought a bottle at the airport later.

We carefully boxed up our creations, said our goodbyes, and caught the bus back to the hotel, knowing the pastries wouldn’t make it home due to the egg filling - but the memory definitely would. 8/10 – Would absolutely recommend! Huge thanks to GetYourGuide for the recommendation — this class was incredible!

A Birthday Dinner to Remember

After a quick change and clean-up (flour everywhere!), we headed to La Paparrucha for my birthday dinner - our final bus journey of the day.

Arriving early, we paused to enjoy the view across the park, reflecting on our trip - everything we’d seen, learned, and loved so far.

Inside, the restaurant felt cosy and welcoming, almost like a mountain lodge. But once we were shown to our table, the view took my breath away - the entire city stretched below us, bathed in golden sunset light.

We ordered cocktails - an Old Fashioned and a Strawberry Daiquiri - and the famous steak. Oh. My. God. The steak was melt-in-your-mouth tender, like cutting through butter. 11/10 - highly recommend! The atmosphere, the food, the view, and the company made it an unforgettable evening.

When dessert time came, I was too full - but then the waiter appeared, carrying a slice of chocolate cake with a candle. My partner had secretly arranged a surprise birthday moment! The whole restaurant sang Happy Birthday, and I nearly cried. I blew out my candle, made a wish, and (of course) asked for a second spoon - there’s always room for dessert!

To top it off, another staff member brought a small shot with an orange slice dusted with cinnamon - we still don’t know what it was, but it was delicious.

The Perfect End to a Perfect Day

We slowly walked back through a quiet, leafy part of Lisbon, tired but happy. My heart (and stomach) was full after such an amazing birthday.

As we caught our final bus back to the hotel, I couldn’t stop thinking about how grateful I felt - for the experiences, the people, and the memories made.

Here’s to appreciating what I have, and to all the adventures still ahead.

Ciao for now,
E x